First watch a few videos on knife handles. Nobody does spatula videos, they just aren't sexy enough. So a knife handle is almost the same thing.

The steps boil down to.

1. Rough shape wood scales for handle.

The rough wood scale should be less than 1/4 inch (7 mm) thick and should overlap the tang a little on all sides.

Form the side touching the tang as flat as possible.

2. Drill holes in wood to match tang holes.

Position tang on wood scales, leave a small (1-2 mm) amount on each side for final forming.

Drill first hole and insert temporary holding bolt to keep wood aligned with tang. Drill second hole and insert bolt. Drill third hole.

Remove holding bolts form first wood scale and repeat drilling operation to get holes in second scale

3. Bend spatula.

90 degrees between blade and riser.

30-45 degrees between riser and tang.

If a sheet metal bender is unavailable, blocks of wood can be used to support the metal for a straight bend.

Put the blade between two blocks of wood in a vise, the riser should be above the blocks with the flat end of the block exactly at the bend location.

Use a third block of wood to push the riser over. Often the bend radius will be two great between the blade and the riser. The riser can be hammered down while the blade is still fixed to get a sharper bend, note that the riser may get scuffed when hammering.

Take the blade out from between the wood blocks and put the tang in its place. Again place the bend location flat and square at the top of the wood block.

Bend the riser to about 45 degrees. If a flat wood block can be found to fit, use it. However, note that due to the smaller width of the tang this is not as critical, this bend will usually turn out fine when pushed by hand.

4. Form the riser side of the wood scales.

It is hard to properly form the riser side of the wood scales after they are attached to the tang. So form them before attachment.

Bolt the wood scales together, so they are formed the same. Then form a nice radius in only the riser end.

This is done after bending the metal so that correct clearance for the riser can be set.

5. Epoxy wood scales to tang.

The epoxy keeps water out of the tang area and holds the wood scales on during riveting.

Spread a thin layer of epoxy on each wood scale. I use a bolt so that the threads create the ideal depth and spread pattern.

Bolt wood scales to tang. Allow epoxy to dry.

6. Rivet wood scales.

Cut 1/4 inch brass rod to 1/16 inch(1-2 mm) longer than depth of handle. smooth and lightly bevel ends.

One hole at a time.

Remove bolt.

Hammer rivet into hole.

Alternating sides, hammer rivet to slightly flare ends. Note that this does not take to much hammering and that an excessive flare will split the wood.

7. File to final dimension.

File top and bottom smooth. The rivets will file down flush with the wood.

File sides flush with the tang. The tang will act as a guide for the file.

File a radius into all sides.

Sand smooth.

8. Apply Surface finish.

I like linseed oil.